I was recently sent a gorgeous package of samples from top SA wine importer Cape Classics, and on the opening day of the World Cup last week, the first bottle to be cracked was this chenin blanc. Though this is the first wine I have tried from this Stellenbosch chenin blanc producer, I'll make sure it won't be the last.
I've written several times about the lusty, rich character of many SA whites, notably the chenin blancs I tried while in the country; there's a certain combination of balanced oak, creamy lees-y characteristics, and ripe fruit (without sacrificing acidity) that these whites posses which is hard to describe without being too sexual. However, in my experience there is no such thing as "too sexual" when it comes to good wine, so I'll go ahead and put it out there: this is a sexy, sexy wine.
Luscious mango, lemon and pineapple on the nose are supported by a haunting dusty, chalky quality; I love minerality in whites and that delicate whisper of powdery chalk and limestone in this otherwise luxurious wine is a knockout combination. The hand of rock-star winemaker Teddy Hall is evident in its poise and grace. Though I successfully paired this wine with smoked trout, food is absolutely not necessary to its enjoyment.
Interestingly, DeMorgenzon's website notes that they play baroque music (notably Bach) into the vineyards 24/7, believing that music enhances the life of the plants and benefits the ripening process. Having participated in many a science fair as a youngster, I'm aware that there's empirical evidence for music affecting plant growth, and I can personally attest to the soulfully uplifting power of Bach. In any case, it seems whatever DeMorgenzon is doing is working.
DeMorgenzon 2008 Chenin Blanc
Wine of Origin: Stellenbosch
Importer: Cape Classics
Price: $28.99*
Recent Comments